Stowe, Vermont - September 18th, 2021
We were camping in Grand Isle State Park near Burlington, Vermont. However, the forecast called for rain on Saturday so we planned our activities accordingly. It seems like we tend to spend more money on rainy days, as we try to find things to do that are more indoors. This time it was tickets to Von Trapp’s Oktoberfest in Stowe, Vermont.
Left Buddy (LB) remembers visiting the Von Trapp Lodge as a child on a family trip to Maine. The Von Trapp family, the same family featured in the Sound of Music movie, has a large complex near Stowe, with a lodge, cabins, a bakery & cafe, a brewery, and a beer hall. When LB was searching for information online about the lodge, he discovered that the Von Trapp’s were hosting an Oktoberfest on Saturday at the Von Trapp Brewery & Bierhall. It was about $60 per person for a beer, appetizer, entree, and a commemorative beer mug. They were having three seatings that day, 11 am, 2 pm, and 6 pm. As it was already about 9 am and Stowe was about an hour’s drive away, we bought the 11 am seating and hustled to get on the road. It is times like this that we are thankful we have a camper van that can be packed up in less than ten minutes.
We arrived at the Von Trapp Bierhall at about 10:30 am. A line was already forming to get in. We waited a few minutes and got in line. In front of us were two men. One was wearing lederhosen, the other was wearing a dirndl dress. Apparently he had lost a bet. However, he was being a great sport about it. He even had his hair French braided. They were gracious enough to let us take their picture.
The appetizer choices were pretzels with pimento cheese dip, bratwurst with sauerkraut and mustards, or potato pancake with horseradish applesauce. The choice of entrees were Jaeger Schnitzel with red cabbage, roasted root vegetables with turnip slaw and Demi salad, beef goulash with egg noodles, bratwurst on a pretzel bun with mustard and onion jam, and curry wurst with Austrian potato salad. Right Buddy (RB) chose the brat appetizer and Jaeger Schnitzel. LB had the soft pretzels and curry wurst. It was not the best German food we’d ever had, but it was tasty and filled us up.
Since RB does not drink beer, she gave hers to LB. The only alternative beverage was water. LB started out with the Oktoberfest beer, then had a Helles. After he finished his second beer and there was still time left for our seating, he bought another beer for an additional $8. This time it was the Dunkel beer.
There was live German music to give a festive atmosphere. First there was an excellent accordion player. Unfortunately, we do not remember his name. Then there was a full band from Burlington, called Inseldudler. They were wonderful musicians as well. To add to the festivities, Johannis Von Trapp (Maria’s son), gave a short speech about the history of the Oktoberfest, then his son Sam ceremoniously tapped the keg.
As we were sitting in the outside beer tent, eating, drinking, singing, and swaying to the music, LB says to RB “I’m in my happy place”. LB did not want it to end, but the band played their last song for our seating and we had to leave. On the way out the door, LB purchased a six pack of the Dunkel beer and RB took his picture with Kristina Von Trapp (Maria’s granddaughter). RB’s not sure if the huge grin on his face was from really enjoying himself or the effect of the three beers, perhaps both. LB added the Dunkel beer to his collection of Von Trapp beer in the back of our van. He had already purchased a six pack of the Von Trapp Oktoberfest beer at a grocery store in Woodstock a couple of days earlier.
We drove past the Von Trapp Lodge and then stopped at the Von Trapp Kaffeehaus Bakery & Delicatessen. Or rather RB drove since LB was feeling pretty good after his three beers. It was time for dessert. We ate our apple Strudel from a table on the back deck of the bakery, with views of the surrounding hillsides. The trees were just starting to change colors. The table umbrella protected us from the light sprinkle of rain that was falling.
Back in the van, we drove into Stowe. A short walk around town let us admire the buildings along the main drag through town. We stopped briefly at the Visitor Information Center to ask a question about the drive up to Smugglers Notch. We were wondering if there were length restrictions on the road. The woman at the desk could not give us any more detailed information other than no tractor trailers are allowed due to the tight turns. Large RV’s will not fit. Even searching online, we could not find any definite length restrictions.
Since we already had dessert and spent quite a bit money, you would think we would skip having ice cream. However, Ben and Jerry’s ice cream factory is just down the street from Stowe. There’s no way we would pass that up! Unfortunately, factory tours are not scheduled to start back up until January 2022. Since it is outside, you can still visit the Ben & Jerry’s Flavor Graveyard. You can also wait in a long line to get ice cream, the same ice cream served at many Ben & Jerry’s shops around the state. Would we wait thirty minutes in line for our ice cream direct from the factory? Yes, yes we would. RB had mint chocolate chunk and chocolate fudge brownie in a waffle cone. Yes, LB had his usual vanilla shake.
We decided to try the scenic drive through Smuggler’s Notch, despite the warnings from the woman at the Stowe Visitor’s Center. RB was still driving. She would have felt more comfortable if LB would drive, since he was more familiar with maneuvering the van, but only if he was completely sober. The drive through Smuggler’s Notch is beautiful. RB had no trouble driving around the sharp turns and narrow passageways. What is the longest vehicle that can make it through? We still don’t know, other than a 20 foot van can fit, even with two bicycles hanging two feet out the back. You need to be comfortable going slow, making tight turns, and staying alert for vehicles coming the other direction, because there are quite a few spots that are only one car wide.
From Smuggler’s Notch, we continued on backroads back to Grand Isle State Park. It was a lovely, but expensive day. And it never did rain very hard. Was it worth all the money? Yes, just to hear LB say “I’m in my happy place”!
Check out our related video: Stowe, Vermont
(RB)